How to have the best British afternoon tea in 2023

Anyone coming to the British Isles will be given, whether they want it or not, a long list of ‘Must Dos’ from well-wishers.

No doubt on that list is an instruction to “take afternoon tea”.

And what could be more British? The tinkling of spoons in china tea cups, wafer thin cucumber sandwiches, a hearty scone smeared with jam and a generous dollop of whipped cream or a slice of the lightest sponge.

My hour for tea is half-past five, and my buttered toast waits for nobody

Wilkie Collins

Afternoon tea has nothing to do with nutrition – it’s all about nostalgia.

Afternoon tea essentials

Whatever location you choose, from cosy café to posh restaurant, afternoon tea absolutely must have:
• Loose leaf tea, in a pot
• China cups and saucers (no mugs!)
• Wafer thin sandwiches, with crusts cut off
• Scones with jam and cream
• Other traditional cakes such as sponge, lemon drizzle or fruit cake

The history of afternoon tea

It’s such an intrinsic part of British life that it comes as a surprise to find that afternoon tea only became popular in the 1800s because of an aristocratic hunger pang.

Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, found the gap between lunch and the evening meal to be too long to bear. She arranged for a tray of tea, bread and butter and cake to be brought to her room during the late afternoon.

By 1840 this had become quite a habit with her, and she began to invite friends to join her – and afternoon tea as an aristocratic, social event was born.

Afternoon Tea vs High Tea

These terms are often used interchangeably but confuse them at your peril.

High tea is not fancy. It’s a pretty substantial meal, more like a light supper, and is served in the early evening. It’ll include meat, fish or egg dishes as well as bread and some sort of dessert.

Afternoon tea is served in the middle of the afternoon and will be a dainty affair with small scones, finger sandwiches and light, highly decorated cakes.

How to have an authentic afternoon tea experience

First of all observe regional variations – and don’t let anyone tell you British food is bland, unexciting and with little choice. Even fish and chips taste different around the country, and afternoon tea is no exception.

In Scotland the tradition is more towards High Tea, serving at least one hot dish, often a locally caught fish-based recipe or a hearty meat pie. That’s followed by a host of home-baked fancies, including scones. After this carbohydrate overload, you won’t need to eat again that day, or even longer!

No afternoon tea in Wales would be complete without a slice of bara brith – the Welsh fruit loaf. Like the Scottish tea it’s also pretty substantial with sandwiches, fruitcake, cream pastries, scones with clotted cream and probably a trifle.

Clotted cream and lashings of butter are likely to feature on any tea menu in Northern Ireland. You can even stop on the County Antrim coastline for a Game of Thrones inspired repast, or eat elegantly near a replica of the Titanic’s iconic staircase in Belfast.

Jam or cream first?

The eternal battle between Devon and Cornwall to hold the cream tea crown.

In Devon, you will be expected to split the scone in two, cover each half with clotted cream, and then add the jam on top. In Cornwall, you split and spread with jam first and top it off with a spoonful of cream.

Whether you are in the jam first or cream first camp, here are our must haves for the best afternoon tea.

Perfect surroundings

Afternoon tea doesn’t have to be posh, but ambiance matters. We’ve had elegant cream teas in beautiful dining rooms, entertained by string quartets. But just as satisfying are the hearty teas served in rustic cafés where nothing matches, and the only sounds are the buzz of happy customers and contented chomping.

Relaxation

Afternoon tea cannot be hurried. If the staff look rushed off their feet, there’s a queue of customers peering through the windows or, worse still, there’s a set time you must leave your table to make way for the second sitting, it won’t be memorable or authentic.

Tea

Sorry coffee lovers (and both Pork Belly and I are caffeine fiends) it has to be tea. Any type of tea. But tea nonetheless. In a pot with china cups and saucers. Vintage is a nice touch but not essential, and they don’t have to match.

A proper table

With a tablecloth, comfortable chairs that you can linger in. Flowers and a tiered cake stand add a touch of authenticity.

A real spread

In a good afternoon tea, the food should keep on coming. Small portions, yes, but they must build to a satisfying whole. Sandwiches, thin cut with no crusts, a selection of cakes, scones and teacakes. Pastries, petit fours and biscuits are just showing off, but we love ’em! Lashings of fruity jam, home-made if possible, and cream, whipped or clotted, but never-ever-ever from a can.

Of course, you can serve your own afternoon tea at home but going out to “take tea” makes it just that little bit more special.

Where there’s tea, there’s hope

Sir Arthur W. Pinero

The rough rule of thumb is the more lavish the surroundings, the higher the price tag, but a small local village café can rival the biggest and the best for a top class spread and offer real value.

Never trust a man who, when left alone in a room with a tea cosy, doesn’t try it on

Billy Connolly

Where’s your favourite place, and what do you think is essential for that perfect afternoon tea?

There are websites devoted to helping you find the best afternoon tea in the country, and there’s even an Afternoon Tea Week every August to celebrate this great British custom.

Some images used under Creative Commons licence

---