Ah, Fleetwood!
It’s the sort of place that makes you quote Spike Milligan…
I must go down to the sea again,
to the lonely sea and the sky;
I left my shoes and socks there –
I wonder if they’re dry?
Named after its founder, Sir Peter Hesketh-Fleetwood, this charming Lancashire town was envisioned as a bustling Victorian seaside resort and port. Perched on the northwest tip of the Fylde Peninsula, Fleetwood quickly became synonymous with fishing, its docks once teeming with trawlers landing fresh catches bound for markets across the country.
Although popular with bird watchers and local day trippers, it’s not an obvious holiday destination. But we love to seek out the unusual.
In its heyday, the town was home to one of the largest fishing fleets in the UK, with thousands employed in the industry, from shipbuilders to fish packers. Although the golden era of fishing has long since passed, echoes of this proud maritime heritage remain, with occasional boats still bringing in their hauls and the celebrated Fisherman’s Friend lozenges, a product born from the town’s seafaring days, continuing to be a global success.
We pitched up on an icy cold February day when the wind was bracing and sunshine scarce.
New Life and Wildlife
Regeneration efforts are breathing new life into Fleetwood, including the possible redevelopment of the former ferry terminal. Once a vital link connecting Fleetwood to Northern Ireland, the terminal closed in 2010, leaving a gap in the town’s maritime identity. However, there are plans to transform the area into a modern hub, incorporating new commercial and leisure facilities that could revitalise the waterfront.
As Fleetwood adapts to the times, it remains a place where history and the promise of renewal walk hand in hand, making it a fascinating destination for visitors. Whether you’re a history buff, a lover of coastal walks, or simply in search of the quintessential British seaside experience, Fleetwood has something to tickle your fancy.
The Fylde Coast is rich in bird and plant life, and the Rossall Point Tower leans into the wind, providing a unique vantage point. Sadly, its observation decks weren’t open when we were there and public access seems a little random. We did get a friendly wave from a volunteer coast watcher as we passed by! There is a public toilet here should you need one, as long as you have either a key or coins.
Nature enthusiasts will also find plenty to admire at the Fleetwood Marsh Nature Reserve, located on the banks of the River Wyre. As we took an early morning walk, we spotted a heron hiding in the reeds, while dozens of pink footed geese flew noisily overhead.
Throughout the year this serene haven is home to a variety of bird species, including mallards, mergansers, and migratory visitors that make seasonal appearances. The mudflats and salt marshes provide a rich feeding ground, attracting everything from elegant egrets to elusive water rails.
For those with a keen eye for history, the area also reveals remnants of Fleetwood’s past in the form of boat wrecks, silent testimonies to the town’s maritime legacy.
A Stroll Down Memory Lane: The Promenade
Begin your adventure, like we did, with a leisurely amble along Fleetwood’s wide promenade. This stretch offers panoramic views over Morecambe Bay, with the distant peaks of the Lake District painting a picturesque backdrop. As you saunter, the salty sea breeze fills your lungs, and the rhythmic lapping of waves provides a soothing soundtrack.
Keep an eye out for the Art Deco marvel, the Marine Hall, standing proudly since 1935. This venue has been the heart of Fleetwood’s cultural scene, hosting events from theatrical performances to concerts. Its charming gardens, dotted with vibrant blooms, are perfect for a mid-walk respite.
Beaconing You On: The Lighthouses
Fleetwood boasts not one, not two, but three lighthouses, a testament to its maritime heritage.
The Pharos Lighthouse, affectionately known as the Upper Lighthouse, stands tall in the middle of Pharos Street. Designed by the illustrious Decimus Burton in 1840, this 93-foot sandstone sentinel has been guiding ships safely to shore for over a century.
A short distance away, the Beach Lighthouse (or Lower Lighthouse) complements its taller sibling. Together, they create a navigational line, ensuring vessels steer clear of treacherous sandbanks.
And let’s not forget the Wyre Light, once standing offshore, now a romantic ruin, adding a dash of intrigue to the seascape. It is possible to take a guided four-mile walk to the Wyre Light, but Morecambe Bay is notorious for fast flowing tides and quick sands, so not to be attempted without expert knowledge.
Sun, Sand, and… Shopping? The Beach and Markets
No visit to a seaside town is complete without wriggling your toes in the sand. Fleetwood’s Marine Beach offers golden sands perfect for building sandcastles, and sunbathing, plus it holds a Seaside Award. The gentle slope into the Irish Sea makes it ideal for a paddle, though be prepared for bracing British waters even during the bathing season from May to September. We kept our shoes and socks firmly on our feet!
Once you’ve had your fill of sun and sea, head over to Fleetwood Market in Victoria Street. Established in 1840, this historic market is a bustling hub of activity. With over 200 stalls, you can find everything from fresh produce to quirky antiques. The aroma of freshly baked pies mingles with the scent of the sea, creating an olfactory experience that’s uniquely Fleetwood. Whether you’re hunting for a souvenir or simply enjoying the lively atmosphere, the market is a must-visit. Coaches are welcome!
Snack Attack
If you’re feeling hungry stop off at A Taste of Thailand in Fleetwood Market for some authentic Thai Street Food. Open on market days it has the R&PB seal of approval!
Sailing Through Time: The Ferry
For a dash of nautical adventure, hop on the Fleetwood to Knott End ferry. Sadly not running while we were there, this short trip across the River Wyre takes no more than 10 minutes and offers stunning views of the coastline and a fresh perspective on the town. It’s been a vital link for locals and visitors alike, and there’s something undeniably charming about crossing the water on this traditional service.
Back on dry land, immerse yourself in the town’s rich maritime history at the Fleetwood Museum, open March to November. Housed in a building designed by Decimus Burton in 1836, the museum offers a treasure trove of exhibits. From the heyday of the fishing industry to the tales of brave lifeboat crews, the stories come alive within these walls.
Don’t miss the chance to see the fishing smack “Harriet,” a vessel built in Fleetwood in 1893, now proudly displayed as a testament to the town’s shipbuilding prowess.
A Nod to the Past: The North Euston Hotel
Dominating the skyline near the Esplanade is the grand North Euston Hotel. Built between 1840 and 1841, this semicircular architectural beauty was the brainchild of Sir Peter Hesketh-Fleetwood and designed once again by Decimus Burton.
In the days before trains conquered the rugged terrain of the Lake District, travellers journeying from London to Scotland would rest here before catching a steamer to continue north. Queen Victoria herself sailed into town and graced the hotel with her presence in 1847.
Today, the North Euston continues to welcome guests, offering a blend of historic charm, modern comforts, and afternoon tea.
Regeneration and Proximity to Blackpool
While Fleetwood has faced its share of challenges, recent regeneration efforts have breathed new life into the town. The seafront has been revitalised, buildings spruced up, and new businesses are adding a fresh buzz. And if you’re yearning for a bit more hustle and bustle, the vibrant resort town of Blackpool is just a stone’s throw away.
As you stroll along Fleetwood’s promenade, you can spot the iconic Blackpool Tower piercing the skyline. The two towns are conveniently connected by the Blackpool Tramway, allowing for easy jaunts, it takes around 45 minutes, between the serene charm of Fleetwood and the lively attractions of Blackpool.
All Aboard The Tramway
Speaking of trams, the Blackpool to Fleetwood Tramway is a delightful way to traverse the Fylde coast. Established in the late 19th century, it’s one of the oldest electric tramways in the world. The journey offers views of the coastline, and there’s a certain nostalgic pleasure riding the historic tramway, even in an up-to-date tram. Whether you’re heading to Blackpool for the day or simply enjoying the ride, it’s an experience that harks back to a bygone era. We paid £3.50 each for a single trip.
A Town with Character
Fleetwood may not have the glitz of some seaside resorts, but that’s precisely where its charm lies. It’s a town that’s weathered the storms, both literal and metaphorical, and emerged with its character intact. The blend of historic architecture, maritime heritage, and the ever-present sea gives it a unique appeal.
So, whether you’re exploring the lighthouses, bargaining at the market, or simply enjoying a quiet moment on the beach, Fleetwood offers a warm welcome and a slice of authentic British seaside life.
Fleetwood: Fun Facts
• Fleetwood football team is known as The Fishermen, and their supporters are called The Cod Army.
• The oldest building in Fleetwood is Fleetwood Museum. It was originally The Customs House, then used as Fleetwood Town Hall.
• Fleetwood, Lancashire is twinned with Fleetwood, Pennsylvania, USA.
• French President Emmanuel Macron uses Fleetwood’s Fisherman’s Friends to ease his throat when speaking in public.
• John Lennon spent some childhood summer holidays in Fleetwood, and The Beatles played Marine Hall in 1962.
For more information, and for details of their Blue Plaque Trail, see the Visit Fleetwood website.
All photographs copyright John Heinrich
Where to next?
• The marvellous mechanical Dragon of Calais
• Little Woodham, living history in action
• Famous UK film locations for a fun day out