The Great British seaside holiday is staging a revival. Happily, it’s no longer all about Kiss Me Quick hats, tooth-shattering sticks of rock, and end-of-the-pier jokes about mothers-in-law (though, if you insist, those relics can still be found tucked away in the corners of certain souvenir shops).
Instead, councils and local businesses are rolling up their sleeves to revive faded promenades, tart up crumbling B&Bs and sprinkle a little glamour on towns that once echoed with the sound of charabanc tours and Punch & Judy shows. Some resorts are dazzling in their comeback.
Some … well, let’s just say they’re a work in progress.
Morecambe: From Faded Star to Future Eco-Dome
Armed with curiosity, we spent the day in Morecambe Bay. Once the golden child of the Great British seaside, its heyday faded in the late 1950s. But things might be on the up again – thanks to the £100m Eden Project North development, set to open in 2028 and promising a futuristic bio-dome on the prom. Fewer sticks of rock, more sustainable horticulture.
First impressions? Let’s be honest, Morecambe doesn’t immediately scream “renaissance.” Driving in, the town centre feels a little worse for wear with bargain shops, charity outlets and the tired grandeur of old municipal buildings. But glance up, and you’ll spot hints of its former glory, and some cracking murals brightening otherwise blank walls.
And then, there’s the Bay. A glorious sweep of sand, fronted by a broad promenade dotted with gardens, cafés and play areas. Even on a blustery but sunny autumn afternoon, locals and visitors were out in force, squeezing the last drops from summer.
Eric Morecambe: Bring Me Sunshine
You can’t visit Morecambe without paying your respects to its most famous son. The Eric Morecambe statue is practically a pilgrimage site. Unveiled by Queen Elizabeth II in 1999, the larger-than-life bronze captures him mid-skip, arms flung wide in his signature “Bring Me Sunshine” pose.
Framed by floral beds, a cluster of plump seagull sculptures, and those epic Bay views stretching to the Lake District, it’s the perfect tribute to a comedy legend. And yes, we took the photo. No, we’re not sharing our silly dance impression.
Art Deco Dreams: The Midland Hotel
The Midland Hotel is a swooping Art Deco beauty that scandalised some when it opened in the 1930s, but is now a crown jewel of seaside architecture. Inside, the beautiful spiral staircase, designed by Oliver Hill and featuring Eric Gill’s artworks, gives a sense of glamour – even if your wallet only stretches to a pot of tea in the café.
We lunched there, and while the food was fine, the real feast was the view across the Bay – partially obscured by scaffolding, but still pretty grand.
The Winter Gardens: The Star of the Show
The undisputed highlight of our day was the Winter Gardens, a Grade II* listed theatre that first opened in 1897 as part of a vast entertainment complex. Back then, sixpence bought you access to comedians, singers, dancers and even a full-blown circus – a godsend when the heavens opened, as they often do in a British summer.
Closed in 1977, it might have crumbled entirely had it not been for the Friends of the Winter Gardens, who’ve spent decades fundraising and restoring the place. Today, volunteers welcome visitors at weekends, and you can wander around the main auditorium for free every Saturday and Sunday between 12 and 4pm from Easter until the end of September.
But the real magic lies in the behind-the-scenes tours. We booked one and spent two hours exploring parquet floors, ornate plaster mouldings and the lofty gods with a guide whose enthusiasm was infectious. Fabulous doesn’t begin to cover it.
Bonus Acts: Stone Jetty, Alhambra and the Heritage Trail
Morecambe isn’t a one-hit wonder, and there are side acts worth catching. The Stone Jetty, built in the mid-19th century, juts proudly into the Bay and makes for a bracing stroll.
Along the way, you’ll spot quirky bird-themed sculptures, a reminder that this is one of Britain’s richest areas for wildlife. At the end sits a neat little lighthouse that’s now more ornamental than operational.
The Alhambra Theatre, built in 1901, still hosts live performances and community events. It may not boast the grandeur of the Winter Gardens, but it’s proof that variety still has a home in Morecambe.
Then there’s the Heritage Trail, which breathes fresh air into the seafront. From the bird-themed sculptures of the Tern Project to over 35 surviving Art Deco buildings, it’s a ready-made walking tour for anyone who likes their sightseeing sprinkled with creativity. And if you’re into murals, there are plenty to spot, some old and some new.
They all make a strong case for keeping your camera handy.
Tomorrow’s Morecambe: Bio-domes and Big Hopes
So, what’s next? Morecambe is still a little rough around the edges, much like many of Britain’s coastal towns. But the prom is buzzing with cafés and ice-cream shops, events like Vintage by the Sea pull in tens of thousands, and then there’s the big one: The Eden Project North. A gleaming eco-attraction that could bring 750,000 extra visitors a year, if (and it is still an if) it actually opens in 2028. The scheme is exciting, though bittersweet. The catch? It’ll come at the cost of the last remains of Morecambe’s 1930s lido, though archaeologists will have their chance to excavate before the diggers move in.
So, would we go back?
We’ve ticked off the statue, the hotel, the Winter Gardens, and a few of the Morecambe Murals, so perhaps not immediately. But when Eden’s glass domes rise on the prom, we’ll be back with bells on (or at least sandals and an anorak).
For now, Morecambe is a seaside town in transition: part faded glory, part plucky revival, and always redeemed by the sheer beauty of its Bay.
Bring your walking shoes, your camera, and maybe a stick of rock for old time’s sake. Just don’t forget to say hello to Eric.
If You Go: Morecambe in a Nutshell
Getting There
• By car: Just off the M6 (junction 34 or 35). Parking plentiful along the prom.
• By train: Direct Northern Rail services from Lancaster (10 mins) connect to Manchester and beyond.
Top Sights
• Eric Morecambe Statue – obligatory photo stop.
• Midland Hotel – Art Deco masterpiece (and decent spot for coffee).
• Winter Gardens – stunning Grade II* theatre, best explored on a guided tour.
• Stone Jetty & Lighthouse – bracing walk with sculptures and Bay views.
• Alhambra Theatre – live music, comedy, and community events.
Food & Drink
• Ice cream kiosks aplenty on the prom.
• Brucciani’s – classic Italian café for coffee and cake.
• The Midland Hotel Afternoon Tea – pricey but panoramic.
• Fish and chips? Practically compulsory. Try the Chipsy King – if only for the name!
When to Visit
Spring–Summer: Best for sunshine, festivals and seaside energy.
Autumn–Winter: Quieter, moody bay views, and Winter Gardens tours still running.
Annual Highlights: Vintage by the Sea Festival* (August/September), Baylight Festival – the free light art trail and community parade (February).
* Did not take place in 2025, but hopes to be back in 2026.
Need to Know
Said to be 6 times larger than Sydney Harbour, Morecambe Bay’s tides are famously fast and dangerous – admire, don’t wade.
Morecambe Winter Gardens and Alhambra Theatre are volunteer led; check opening times before you go.
For more information, visit:
Lancaster and Morecambe Bay
Morecambe Bid
All photographs copyright © John Heinrich
Where to next?
• A vintage day out at Crich Tramway Village
• Bletchley Park, the sound of secrets
• Newhaven Fort For A Great Sussex Day Out