Quintessential.
Seems I only ever see that word nowadays in connection with afternoon tea. It’s a bit overused, yet it perfectly describes the tea-time extravaganza at Leonardslee House in West Sussex.
The gardens, 240 acres of historic woodland and waterways, are to re-open in April 2019 after almost ten years of neglect.
I have many happy childhood memories of wandering the winding paths of Leonardslee seeking the elusive wild wallabies, but in those days the house was never open to the public.
So I was thrilled when the new owners invited us for a stroll around the almost-ready-for-the-public grounds and to take afternoon tea in the 19th century mansion with its sweeping views of woodland paths, pale-barked eucalyptus and pink-and-white magnolia just bursting into bloom.
Afternoon tea at its best is an unhurried, slightly decadent meal. And Leonardslee House perfectly captures that mood.
Setting the mood
A mechanical piano playing pop classics provides a gentle background to muted conversation and the tinkling of spoons in delicate china cups.
The walls are decorated with floral designs and reproduction paintings.
The chairs and sofas of the drawing room, where the teas are served, are soft and inviting.
The original carpet is a little worn but its pale green suits the room perfectly.
The rose-and-gold patterned china cups gleam on starched white tablecloths.
So yes, quintessential.
And the food?
Well that’s quintessential too, but with a modern twist.
Leonardslee House Tea Room offers both a classic afternoon tea menu and a more savoury version if you want something a little heartier. A range of fragrant teas, brewed individually on a cup-by-cup basis, keeps the palate clear.
The cost (in 2019) is £35 a head, or £45 if you want to add a glass of sparkling wine, plus service charge.
Not an everyday choice at these prices but just right for that special day out with perfectly presented, petite portions that build to a satisfying whole.
Pork Belly, with his omnivorous approach, chose the savoury tea which replaces the usual finger sandwiches with something a little different. He opted for the Leonardslee scotch egg served on a bed of piccalilli. A rich casing more like pulled pork than sausage meat with a perfect egg inside, soft-yolked and golden.
A selection of seasonal bite-sized savouries followed, with the cheese and chorizo puff being Pork Belly’s favourite. All topped off with two mini-scones with clotted cream, jam and lemon curd.
Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free choices
Everything is made fresh on the premises and with advance warning of any special dietary needs the talented kitchen staff can turn their hands to almost anything.
Being vegetarian with an allergy to cow’s milk the team proposed a vegan alternative for me.
My finger sandwiches, made with gluten and dairy free bread included vegan cream cheeses and, of course, cucumber.
Question: Is afternoon tea without cucumber sandwiches really afternoon tea? Discuss.
The ratio of bread to filling is, at first glance, a little skewed, but the bread is light and flavourful and when eating elegantly one doesn’t want to risk the oozing mayonnaise scenario.
My vegan-friendly savouries were a tiny pastry seed cup, a crisp and tangy piccalilli mini-pocket and the most delicious beetroot, tomato and onion chutney wrap I have ever tasted. I lingered over each mouthful, not wanting it to end.
beetroot, tomato and onion chutney wrap
Then came what should always be, and so often isn’t, the highlight of afternoon tea – the patisserie.
Oh my.
I’ll let your eyes do the feasting first.
And can you spot the difference between the traditional and the vegan versions?
No?
Nor could we. And that what’s made this so special from my perspective.
Each delicate, non-dairy alternative was a delight in its own right. Not a pale imitation of someone else’s treat.
My chocolate tartlet was as delectable as Pork Belly’s ice-cream battenberg, our macarons matched, my plate of pastries as exquisite as his.
If we have any criticism to make, and it’s a minor one, it’s the lack of a dairy-free alternative to cream for the scones, but the deep flavour of the strawberry jam made up for this omission.
What, no teapot?
Don’t be disconcerted by the lack of teapot on the table, the tea is freshly infused for each cup to avoid the bitterness of over-steeping.
The service is smart, friendly and knowledgeable and I swear they have special powers. Almost every time I found my cup empty someone appeared at my elbow with a refill.
The final offering is a slice of cake either to eat there or take away.
A word of advice, go for the take-away option. No matter how good the cake is, it really can’t match the patisserie selection. We suggest you take away a slice and relive your afternoon tea experience later, in the comfort of your own home.
More information about afternoon tea at Leonardslee Gardens
The tea room was opened late in 2018 and is becoming popular but it’s likely the opening of the gardens will bring in more customers. We were there on a chilly Friday afternoon and it was very quiet and peaceful. Things may get a little busier in high season.
One thing to note is that no cash is accepted as they are a cash free zone. You can see the full menu options, including a children’s menu, on their website They also run special themed tea experiences like Murder Mysteries and masterclasses for writers so it’s worth looking at their events section.
Disclaimer: We were the guests of the Leonardslee House and Gardens team and did not pay for our meal. The views expressed above are our own opinions
Where to next?
• Afternoon tea, a visitors guide
• A guide to the Prosecco Road
• Victoria sponge – gluten and dairy-free
Oh wow, that looks absolutely gorgeous. Never been to Leonardslee so will have to check this place out. Interesting point on the cucumber sandwiches – I had an afternoon tea last year without them, and it didn’t have any scones either. It was the fabulous fashion-themed afternoon tea at The Berkeley Hotel in London. The cakes were all like tiny handbags, shoes & dresses. I do love an inventive afternoon tea, there’s nothing quite like it.
That sounds amazing. I do love a fancy tea but not at the expense of style over substance and there have to be scones!