In early April, before the crowds, the island is quite simply beautiful.
Cyprus in spring means seas warm enough for a paddle, if not a swim, and long expanses of almost empty beaches.
The weather can be a little uncertain, but on my trip it was perfect – clear blue skies, gentle breezes and cool evenings.
The weather in Cyprus in spring
In spring, the hot Mediterranean sun hasn’t yet burned the vegetation to a dusty brown, so there is greenery wherever you look.
Early roses, bountiful bougainvillea, fragrant orange blossom and heavily laden lemon trees.
Fruits are everywhere, with luscious, fat strawberries on sale by the roadside, picked and in your basket (or mouth) in moments.
Cyprus food
Another advantage of going in spring is that the evenings are cool enough to want to eat something more than salads.
I enjoyed a traditional stifado, the local stew with chunks of melt-in-the-mouth beef, and I couldn’t leave without sampling at least one kebab.
In a small, unassuming takeaway on the outskirts of Lemesos (Limassol) I was treated to tender grilled pork on skewers, served with an excellent side salad, pickled vegetables and a huge portion of piping hot chips.
Having read this far, you might think that all I did was eat, drink and swim.
Well, there were days like that, but I did a fair amount of sightseeing too.
History of Cyprus
The ruins at Kourion
The highlight for me was the Roman and Byzantine ruins at Kourion (also known as Curium).
The location is breathtakingly beautiful – a high hilltop overlooking the sweep of the bay and out across to the headlands.
But it’s the size and scale of the excavated ruins that truly amaze.
Built over a period of time ranging from the 2nd century BC to the 4th century AD, it was destroyed in a large earthquake.
Today, much of the city-kingdom of Kourion has been slowly excavated and sensitively restored to give a very real sense of what life would have been like.
Actors and gladiators
Pride of place goes to the semicircular theatre, with spectacular views out across the bay. Standing on the so-called “sweet spot” you only have to speak normally, and your words can be heard clearly in every one of the seats.
It’s still used for concerts and shows, which must be fabulous with that backdrop at dusk.
While I was there, a German tourist with a soaring soprano voice stepped on to the spot and delighted us with an unaccompanied rendition of Ave Maria.
My friends and I performed an a cappella version of Candle on the Water, not quite in the same league, but the acoustics were immensely satisfying.
But it’s poking about in all the remains that really bring home the Roman way of life.
The agora and basilica take up almost the whole plateau on the top of the hillside. There are the remains of the largest public baths I have ever seen, with a series of hypocausts for heating the water, all almost intact.
The mosaics, covered now for protection against the weather, still look fresh and in the rows of the private houses you can see the stone basins and storage areas which were part of everyday life.
Omodos village
Cyprus isn’t all about the past. It’s vibrant and welcoming to travellers.
Omodos is a typical Cypriot village in the foothills of the Troodos Mountains.
If you’re visiting in high season, try to get there early before the coach-loads arrive, but in spring the narrow streets are quiet and tranquil.
It has been restored with an eye to the tourist trade, of course, but is well worth a visit.
The Monastery of the Holy Cross has incredible gilded icon stands from the 1800s and a rather gruesome selection of reliquaries and relics of numerous saints.
Drop in to Socrates House – laid out as it would have been at the turn of the twentieth century with old quilted beds, hunting knives on the wall and a selection of family photos.
The oldest family member himself welcomes you and in broken English enthusiastically shows off his home.
There is no charge, but common courtesy demands you leave a donation or make a purchase. I tasted his home-made version of the sweet wine the area is renowned for, Commandaria and opted to take a bottle for 8 Euros.
Commandaria wine of Cyprus
This brew is one of the world’s most ancient, having been made in exactly the same way and kept the same name for over 800 years.
It was served at the 12th century wedding in the chapel of Kolossi Castle in Lemesos of Richard the Lionheart and Berengaria of Navarre, and the crusader declared it “the wine of kings and the king of wines.”
Commandaria is made exclusively from two types of local Cyprus grapes, Xynisteri and Mavro which are left on the vine until they are over-ripe giving them a very high sugar content.
I’m not sure if I’d agree with old Lionheart, but it makes a pleasant drink to sip after dinner.
My trip, at just 7 days, was not enough time to see everything this island has to offer, and I’m looking forward to returning some time soon to share the delights with Pork Belly.
For more information about Cyprus
To discover an island rich in history and culture, take a look at the Visit Cyprus website.
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