On the wild and often windy North Norfolk coast lies Sheringham, a typical English seaside town, popular with tourists, day trippers and train enthusiasts.
Overshadowed by its bigger, busier and brasher neighbour Cromer, Sheringham is a former fishing village that’s kept pace with the times.
It’s also where Pork Belly was born, making him a ‘shannock’ in the local dialect. We make frequent trips back to his roots, and every time we return, there’s always something new to discover.
Here are our 7 must-see-and-do things in Sheringham.
Relax on a family-friendly beach
Locals don’t understand why the holiday hordes flock to Cromer. They believe the beach at Sheringham is far better.
When the tide is out on this Blue Flag beach, there are long stretches of clean, soft sand and fun rock pools to explore. When the tide is in, there’s only a narrow strip of shingle to enjoy, but there are plenty of shops and cafés and a lovely promenade walk along the top with great sea views.
During the summer there are two teams of lifeguards, as the waters off the coast can catch out the unwary swimmer, and the local RNLI lifeboat is on hand if adventurous paddleboarders get a little too far from shore.
Ride the North Norfolk Railway
Steam and heritage diesel engines run on the 5-mile-long Poppy Line between Sheringham and Holt, stopping off at the picturesque village of Weybourne on the way, with an extra request stop at Kelling Heath for campers and hikers.
A hugely popular attraction with locals and visitors alike, The North Norfolk Railway runs a whole series of events throughout the year from steam galas to forties weekends, swinging sixties to local gin tasting.
Train buffs will love the range of authentic engines and rolling stock, but there’s plenty of fun for those less well-informed, and the journey takes you through some beautiful countryside.
Steam Trains run daily in the February half-term, weekends in March and daily from 1 April to 30 October. But always check their timetable.
Sample a seafood special
Sheringham still has a strong fishing industry, based on crabs, lobsters and whelks, so the seafood is absolutely fresh.
Brown crabs, nurtured in the nutrient-rich waters of the local chalk reef, are said to be sweeter and more tender here than anywhere else in the UK.
And if, like me, fish ain’t your fancy, then you can tuck in to a traditional bag of chips, as you stroll beside the waves.
Visit Sheringham Museum
Don’t miss this little gem, packed with information about Sheringham’s old fishing fleet, dramatic lifeboat rescues and up-to-date news and views of the offshore windfarm.
Plus fascinating exhibits of the area’s Deep History, with fossils and flints.
The museum is small and compact, but there’s enough to keep everyone amused for more than an hour or two.
Stroll in Sheringham Park
Run by the National Trust, Sheringham Park is a wonderful walking location just a couple of miles north of the town centre.
Open from dawn to dusk every day of the year, it offers four marked routes with distances ranging from one to five miles, taking you through the varying habitats of the park, designed by landscape architect Humphry Repton.
It’s rightly famous for its rhododendrons and azaleas, but don’t miss the beautiful tree-top gazebo with views out to sea.
Time it right when steam trains are running on the Poppy Line, and you’ll be rewarded with a sight straight out of The Railway Children.
Brave Beeston Bump
Don’t believe anyone who says Norfolk is flat! It can be a deceptive place and the climb up Beeston’s Bump is a bit of a challenge, but worth the effort for views of the coast and surrounding countryside.
The 63-metre-high hill is mainly sand and gravel, with the odd large boulder, and dates back to the last ice age.
It still has the foundations of a WW2 listening station, which the code-breakers of Bletchley Park used.
See a show at Sheringham Little Theatre
Cromer may have its End of the Pier Show, but Sheringham has the historic Little Theatre.
Originally the place where whelks were boiled in huge copper vats, it was converted into shops and a community hall in the late 1890s.
After that it became a cinema, popular during the silent movie era, then refurbished as a theatre in the 1960s.
Today it runs a summer season of comedies, concerts and film screenings in its 160 seat auditorium.
Other things to do in Sheringham
The Peter Coke Shell Gallery is an eclectic collection of shells and art works created by a former army officer turned antiques dealer. After travelling the world, Peter settled in Sheringham and worked on his shell sculptures until his death in July 2008 at the age of 95.
Scira Viking Festival takes place in April, celebrating the arrival on the Deep History Coast of North Norfolk’s first ever tourists! Look out for street battles, torchlight parades, and a bit of boat burning.
Sheringham Carnival Week is usually the first week in August, with a parade on the first Wednesday and fireworks on the Sunday. It gets pretty busy, so ask a local for somewhere safe to park up and get a great view of the fireworks without the crowds (Shh… we’re not telling!)
Don mask and flippers and try the Sheringham Snorkel Trail. A disused Victorian-era iron sewage pipe stretches out to sea, encrusted with seaweed and marine invertebrates. You can explore the pipe and the ancient chalk reef below, using the guide ropes, life buoys and information signs.
Oh, and after all that exploring, you might be in need of ice cream. Call into Ellie’s Ice Cream on the High Street and treat yourself to a Ronaldo’s. It’s made in Norwich from fresh whole milk, double cream and locally grown fruit and is delicious, as Pork Belly will testify.
Getting to Sheringham
You can reach Sheringham by train via Norwich, then catch The Bittern Line to the coast. There are regular bus services. For visitors coming by car, there are plenty of pay and display car parks around the town. When the heritage trains are running on the Poppy Line, we like to park at Holt and take the train in and out.
Where to stay in Sheringham
Plenty of traditional seaside hotels and guest houses, many with great sea views.
North Norfolk coast is famous for its family and budget-friendly caravan parks. The nearest to Sheringham are in Holt and Cromer. More choices on the Visit North Norfolk website
Accessible Sheringham
The town centre is mainly flat, but it is a steep slope down to the beach.
The Poppy Line has suitable carriages for wheelchair-users on both steam and diesel trains, and volunteers are on hand to help.
Sheringham Park has an accessible route to follow.
All photographs except ‘Beeston Bump’ copyright ©rosemaryandporkbelly
Where to next?
• East Ruston Gardens
• Paddleboat on the Norfolk Broads
• Riverside Walk in Norwich