The very best of Exmoor

Exmoor – the very name conjures up visions of wilderness, ancient battles, hunting, history, and the faint possibility of running into a large, shadowy feline.

Stretching for miles tucked between the North Devon and Somerset coasts it gives its name to a National Park, which includes the Brendon Hills, the East Lyn Valley, the Vale of Porlock and miles of the Bristol Channel coast.

Here you’ll find rugged cliffs, secret coves, lush river valleys, wild woods, and high moorland where the only crowds you’ll encounter are made up of sheep and the occasional wild pony.

It’s wild, wonderful, and waiting for you. The perfect place for a UK getaway whether you’re flying solo, in romantic company, or taking the entire family.

Exmoor, a land of wild beauty

East from Little Hangman, Exmoor © Nigel M Stone/Exmoor NP
Walk the Hangman Hills © Nigel M Stone/Exmoor NP

Exmoor’s rocky headlands, ravines, waterfalls and towering cliffs are a designated Heritage Coast, home to mainland Britain’s highest sea cliff. Great Hangman near Combe Martin is over 1,000 feet high with an 820-foot cliff face.

If that’s too scary for you, its sister cliff, Little Hangman, is a mere 656 feet.

Not surprisingly, Exmoor’s coastline attracts explorers, rock climbers and adventurers who trek its long and isolated trails.

Walkers on Valley of Rocks, Lynmouth © Exmoor NP
Walking the Valley of Rocks © Exmoor NP

Those of a less adventurous disposition can enjoy the quieter small harbours that dot the coastline and river mouths. Once the centre of a thriving fishing industry, they’re now full of sailing craft and non-commercial fishing boats.

With a wetter and milder climate than most of Britain, the moors are home to a wide variety of wildlife. Sheep of course graze most of the upland pastures, and wild Exmoor ponies roam freely.

In the quieter areas you might spot red deer and birds include merlin, the peregrine falcon, Eurasian curlew, Dartford warbler and ring ouzel.

Exmoor Ponies © Heather Lowther/ENPA
Exmoor Ponies running free © Heather Lowther/ENPA

But beware, you may come face to face with the Beast of Exmoor.

Sightings since the 1970s have been sporadic but credible, although if it is still alive it’s incredibly elusive.

A deployment of Marine Commandos, keeping watch from covert stations for six months, failed to spot it. Described as a large cat black, tan or dark grey in colour, the theory is that it is a cougar or black leopard released into the wild when a law was passed in the UK making it illegal to keep them in captivity outside zoos.

Whatever the truth of the story, the wild vastness of Exmoor has been perfect for its lonely life.

If you do spot it, you’ll have bragging rights for life. Just don’t try to feed it your sandwiches!

12 things you can do in Exmoor

If the rambling, rock climbing, bird-watching and sailing just aren’t enough, there are dozens of other more leisurely pursuits to follow.

The area is dotted with tiny towns and villages, each with its own particular charm.

Lynton and Lynmouth cliff railway, North Devon ©  Rosser1954/Wikimedia
Built in 1888, at 862ft, it’s the steepest fully water powered railway in the world © Rosser1954/Wikimedia

Climb aboard The Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway, which connects Lynton to neighbouring Lynmouth, where the East Lyn & West Lyn rivers meet. Powered entirely by water, this Victorian marvel offers unbeatable views.

An easy walk from Lynmouth is the Valley of the Rocks, at the mouths of the wooded gorges of the East and West Lyn rivers. With its towering cliffs, it’s probably the most spectacular scenic location on Exmoor.

Robber's Bridge, Doone Valley © ENPA
Picturesque Robbers Bridge crosses Weir Water in what was once bandit country © ENPA

Picnic at Robber’s Bridge. Once a haunt of highwaymen, this picturesque spot just off the A39 is now perfect for sandwiches and a paddle in Weir Water.

Wander through Porlock, a quiet coastal town with a salt marsh nature reserve and a peaceful harbour.

Porlock Weir harbour © James Walker/ENPA
Porlock Weir harbour © James Walker/ENPA

Watchet is a historic seaside town with a marina and is home to a carnival, which is held annually in July.

Dunster castle © JohnParsons Jr/Flickr
A former motte and bailey castle Dunster Castle is now part of the National Trust © JohnParsons, Jr/Flickr

Explore the National Trust’s Dunster Castle, a priory, an ancient dovecote, the old yarn market, an old packhorse bridge and an ancient mill. While you’re there, stop off at the romantic Lover’s Bridge.

Lover's Bridge © James Walker/Exmoor NP
Lover’s Bridge © James Walker/Exmoor NP

There’s another historic packhorse bridge at Allerford. Built as a crossing over the River Aller, it’s thought to be medieval in origin and is now a scheduled ancient monument.

Packhorse Bridge, Allerford Somerset © ENPA
Packhorse Bridge, Allerford Somerset © ENPA

Take the Coleridge Way, a 51 mile hiking trail from the Quantock Hills to Exmoor. Complete the whole length and earn a certificate, or just dip into short sections of the well signposted route.

Coleridge Way walkers © Jon Coole, Exmoor NP
‘No I’m sure it’s this way’. Coleridge Way walkers © Jon Coole/Exmoor NP

Try stargazing. Exmoor was the first designated Dark Sky Reserve in Europe. Clear skies and low light pollution will give you a star show unlike any other. Best bring a blanket and some hot chocolate!

Learn about bees. Enjoy a honey tasting session, watch a beekeeping demo, or try your hand at rolling a beeswax candle at Quince Honey farm in South Molton.

Experience traditional seaside fun at Minehead’s Victorian resort and enjoy a day at the beach.

Whether it’s the sands of Minehead or the dramatic shores near Porlock, Exmoor’s beaches cater to both sunbathers and adventurers.

Star trails above Dunster Castle © Adrian Cubitt, Exmoor NP
Star trails above Dunster Castle © Adrian Cubitt/Exmoor NP

Seasonal highlights

Exmoor National Park covers more than 260 square miles of the most amazing countryside – hills, coasts, woods and wild moors.

Spring brings snowdrops and bluebells to its ancient woodlands, while summer offers long days for coastal walks and picnics.

Autumn cloaks the moors in russet tones, and winter’s crisp skies make for unbeatable stargazing.

Bluebells beside footpath, Valley of Rocks, Lynmouth © Exmoor NP
Walk amongst the bluebells, Valley of Rocks, Lynmouth © Exmoor NP

With stunning shores and romantic moors, you’re sure to find something you love in Exmoor.

The woods around Porlock grow all the way to the shore, forming the single longest stretch of coastal woodland in England and Wales, and its coastal heaths are a Site of Special Scientific Interest because of the diversity of plant species found there.

There’s plenty of family-friendly fun to be had with beautiful beaches, museums, castles and even a dinosaur park. See Visit Exmoor website for more ideas of what to see and do.

Seaside Safari © Heather Lowther/ENPA
Exploring the shoreline © Heather Lowther/ENPA

How to Get to Exmoor

Whether you’re coming from the bustling streets of London, the vibrant city of Manchester, or the rugged landscapes of Scotland, getting to Exmoor is an adventure in itself.

By Rail: The nearest mainline train stations to Exmoor are Taunton and Tiverton Parkway. From London, you can catch a direct train to Taunton in under two hours. From Manchester, it’s around three hours with one change. For those travelling from Scotland, take a train to Birmingham or Bristol and connect onwards. Local buses or taxis can take you into the heart of Exmoor from the station.

By Car: From London, head west on the M4, then take the M5 south towards Taunton before following signs to Exmoor. It’s about a three-and-a-half-hour drive. From Manchester, take the M6, then the M5 south, and you’ll reach Exmoor in around four hours. Driving from Scotland? Brace yourself for a longer trip – around seven to eight hours – but the scenic routes through the UK countryside make it worthwhile.

By Air: The closest airports to Exmoor are Bristol and Exeter. Flights from London, Manchester, and Scotland connect to these regional airports. From there, hire a car or hop on a train to reach Exmoor.

By Bike: Feeling energetic? National Cycle Route 3 passes through Exmoor, offering a challenging but rewarding ride. Starting from London, Manchester, or Scotland would be a Herculean effort, but for shorter trips within the southwest, it’s a fantastic option for cycling enthusiasts.


Some images are public domain or reproduced under Creative Commons licence


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