You’ve heard those travellers’ tales of restaurants stumbled across by accident, where there’s no menu and Mine Host simply invites you in to take pot luck with whatever’s cooking in the kitchen?
This meal, in the re-telling, turns out to be the best food ever tasted, the drink home-brewed and the bill minuscule.
Such tales retold back home should be taken with a pinch of salt, or at least acknowledged they’re coloured with the rosy glow of nostalgia which deepens with every re-telling.
But these places do exist.
We know.
We found one.
Halfway up a mountain in Italy.
Driving the Dolomites
We set off on a gloriously hot summer’s day from our peaceful villa nestling in the rolling Veneto countryside.
Slowly the wide smooth roads of the gentle pre-alp foothills gave way to steeper inclines, narrow roads, hair-raising hairpins and perilously few passing places as we nosed our way into the Dolomites themselves.
The weather became changeable as we inched closer to cloud level and the views ever more dramatic.
Our ultimate destination? Mount Grappa.
But on the way we had to look out for cyclists powering their way up the slopes and even the occasional hiker, clearly fitter and more determined than those of us on four wheels.
The twists and turns left us a little breathless, and it was a relief to reach the dramatic Chiesa Vedetta, as there the road became a little less troublesome, sweeping around the high valleys in lazy curves, allowing us time to take in the glorious, wild views.
And then, unexpectedly, we found it, Malga Mure, so remote that its address is listed as ‘unnamed road’ and where cows and goats outnumber the locals about 100 to 1.
Home-cooking for hikers
It’s clearly well known to regulars and those of the hiking-and-cycling brigade but for us it was a total surprise.
We drew up, asked in broken Italian if they were open for a drink, were waved cheerfully in and the next thing we knew we were wolfing down lunch.
And what a lunch.
Cheese made from the milk of the cows in the field behind us, their bells a-clinking-clanking. Almost deafening in the still air.
Salami and home-made pickles.
Pasta with a beef ragu and a selection of meats from the blazing grill.
Vegetarian? No problem. How about a fresh mixed salad and olive drenched beans?
Dessert? What could be more traditional than a home-made tiramisu.
All washed down with a local beer, sparkling water and piping hot coffee.
No rush
We lingered long, watching families, cyclists and motor-bikers drop in and sit at the long trestle tables.
There was no hurry, and no one was in a rush to present the bill.
To feed three hungry people it was under 40 Euros – a fraction of the prices we’d paid elsewhere on our trip.
Simple food?
Yes.
Location?
Perfect with breathtaking views.
Convenient?
Well not exactly because quite apart from the steep approach, it’s only open between June and September, and even those dates can vary depending on the weather. It gets mighty cold up in those mountains and the roads can be too treacherous to encourage visitors.
But in the summer it’s worth the climb to enjoy a real taste of Italy.
Malga Mure is part of the Italian Agriturismo scheme which offers farm-stays in beautiful rural locations.
Accommodation is comfortable but often basic and you’re likely to be woken up by chickens, cows or goats.
One thing they all have in common is excellent, home-cooked food made with fresh local produce.
More about Malga Mure
Malga Mure is one of a series of malghe (alpine dairies) famous for their excellent cheeses which are sold directly to the public. Their speciality is the bastardo, a hard, semi-fat cow’s milk cheese traditionally mixed with a little goat or sheep milk, hence the name ‘bastardo’. It’s been produced in the region since about 800 AD.
We discovered Malga Mure during our two week stay in the beautiful Veneto region of Italy. If you’re thinking of travelling there, remember to check out our discounts and deals before you book, or risk missing out on the latest money-saving offers.
Where to next?
• Veneto
• Guide to the Prosecco Road
• Getting by in Italy