As Kermit once sang: ‘It’s not that easy being green.’
Especially if you’re a city like Philadelphia, steeped in history, bustling, thriving and full of life.
But in 1682 William Penn’s innovative plan included public squares intended for rest and healthy greenery. Rittenhouse Square, Dilworth Park, The Love Park and Washington Square are oases of calm amongst the city hustle.
Modern additions, like the rooftop garden between the skyscrapers at Cira Green near 30th Street Station, continue that tradition and there are many lush, leafy places for walking, running, and family-friendly activities.
Head a little further out of the centre and you’ll find our four favourite spots in green Philadelphia – three of which you can enjoy for free.
Fairmount Park
Bigger than Central Park in New York, Fairmount is the largest municipal park in Philadelphia and the biggest landscaped park in the United States. It’s made up of a string of smaller parks located on both sides of the Schuylkill River, totalling more than 2,000 acres.
The eastern side holds the Museum of Art, several waterside recreation spots and dozens of statues – including the popular Rocky figure.
The western side provides sweeping views of the city skyline, picnic and BBQ spots and, in springtime, marvellous cherry and magnolia blossoms.
It’s also home to a number of historic mansions and the fabulous Wissahickon Valley.
Wissahickon Valley Park
More than 2,000 acres and 80 kilometres of trails cross this parkland in Northwest Philadelphia. Follow the Wissahickon Creek from where it meets the Schuylkill River all the way to the city boundary.
You can walk, jog, hike or cycle Forbidden Drive – it’s just motor vehicles that are banned.
It’s Pork Belly’s favourite running spot when we visit the city.
The historic Valley Green Inn is a great place to stop and refresh both body and soul and the route also takes in some of Pennsylvania’s famous bridges, including the city’s only remaining covered bridge, the Thomas Mill Bridge.
Morris Arboretum
It’s just trees, isn’t it?
Well, that was our initial reaction when we saw the signs, but on a slightly damp day when we didn’t want to travel too far or fast it turned out to be a real delight.
Once the family home of brother and sister John and Lydia Morris, it started off as a house with a garden on poor, barren land. Over the years the pair began to landscape the park and plant trees, shrubs and flowers from all over the world.
The Morrises were active in civic affairs and preservation, and believed in the power of education and laid plans for a school and laboratory devoted to horticulture and botany.
In 1932 their home became the Morris Arboretum of the University of Pennsylvania.
Today a stroll along its paths will bring you past streams and ponds, through woodland to sweeping lawns and parks dotted with sculptures and discreet information boards.
Even more delightful in the summer months is the garden railway, a quarter mile of track featuring seven loops and tunnels with fifteen different rail lines, two cable cars, nine bridges (including a trestle bridge you can actually walk under) and model trains of all shapes and sizes.
The route is dotted with miniature representations of Philly’s famous landmarks, all made out of natural materials – bark, leaves, twigs, hollow logs, mosses, dried flowers, seeds and stones.
An Independence Hall constructed from pine cones, twigs and acorns is a sight to behold, and the volunteers who run it are a fount of train-related knowledge.
Another ‘must visit’ while you are there is the Dorrance H. Hamilton Fernery, home to over 200 species of ferns, collected from around the world, all tucked inside the 1899 greenhouse. It’s the only remaining freestanding Victorian fernery in the whole of North America. These pre-historic plants have flourished since dinosaurs roamed the earth.
Morris Arboretum opening hours:
November to March: Daily 10 am to 4 pm
April to October: Weekdays 10 am to 5 pm | Weekends 9 am to 5 pm
See their website for admission prices
Closed for the following holidays:
Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day
More information about Morris Arboretum
The Rail Park
The gentrification of city areas can be controversial, but Philadelphia’s Rail Park seems to be getting it right.
The plan is to turn three miles of the old elevated rail track into 3 sections of usable, green space; the Viaduct, the Cut, and the Tunnel, accessible and free for all stretching from Northern Liberties to Fairmount Park.
The only part completed so far is the quarter of a mile stretch between Callowhill and Broad and Noble, a part of the city off the usual tourist track.
Pathways, greenery and huge bench swings give unusual views of the city.
It does have a bit of an arty feel. While we were there, a group of students were using it for a photo-shoot which included a model sheep!
But it’s also used by dog-walkers and locals on a daily basis.
Even better, its industrial past is not glossed over or forgotten, instead it’s honoured with info boards and a wall detailing the line’s importance to the growth of the city over the years.
So, how green is your city?
More information
Planning a stay in Philadelphia? Check out Visit Philadelphia
All images copyright © rosemaryandporkbelly
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