Ah, Buttercup. How could you betray your one true love and marry the evil Prince Humperdinck? No wonder you had terrible dreams of the crowd turning against you, in that beautiful courtyard where your future subjects gathered.
If you’ve never seen The Princess Bride, (and why ever not?!) you won’t have a clue why a trip to Haddon Hall in Derbyshire had me wrapped up in fantasy.
This well-loved family home, that dates back to the Middle Ages, is so perfect a backdrop that location scouts choose it time and time again.
Go, and you’ll see why.
And, unlike many historic houses in England, Haddon Hall has a real lived-in feel that makes it very special.
Haddon Hall has appeared in many films and TV shows, including three different film adaptations of Jane Eyre and the 2005 film version of Pride & Prejudice, as well as the wonderful Princess Bride.
But that’s not the only attraction. Haddon Hall is packed with history, elegant rooms, an Elizabethan Walled Garden, beautiful roses, fragrant herbs and of course the ancient bridge (the one over which Buttercup flees on her trusty steed when trying to escape her fate.)
But most of all, Haddon Hall remains a family home.
Still lived in.
Still cared for.
Haddon Hall is a former country seat of the Dukes of Rutland. Parts of the hall date back to the 11th century, with additions at various stages between the 13th and the 17th centuries.
The current owner is Lord Edward Manners, brother of the 11th Duke of Rutland, and his family still live there in private apartments.
A family home through the centuries
Built more than 900 years ago, Haddon Hall has survived, almost untouched, throughout the centuries because of a strange twist of fate.
Owned by the Vernon family and their descendants, the whole house was mothballed for more than 200 years from the reign of Queen Anne to the late 19th century.
Everything stayed exactly as it was; the raised dais in the banqueting hall, the tapestries on the walls, the fire irons in the hearth and the pewter tableware stored in the cupboards.
And when the family returned to its ancestral country house and undid the locks, Haddon Hall was revealed again in all its glory.
The medieval kitchen, the private chapel, the glorious windows looking out onto the garden terraces dropping to the River Wye below.
A leisurely visit
Unlike many other stately homes, there’s no set route for visitors to follow or guides urging you on.
There’s just a map and a sense of the centuries.
We took hours to explore its rooms, passageways and grounds, wandering at will, back and forth, to allow the feel of the place to sink into our bones.
Guides are available in almost every room, and we found them helpful and informative but never intrusive.
Haddon Hall stands on a sloping site, and is structured around two courtyards; with the Eagle Tower overlooking the upper northeastern courtyard, while the lower, southwest courtyard houses the Chapel.
In between lies the Great Hall but, as was the case in most medieval great houses, many of the rooms can only be reached from outside or by passing through other rooms. Not very convenient!
And because of its years of slumber, much of the house remains unchanged, with its historic layout.
The original frescoes adorn the chapel walls and the kitchens retain their original features, including stock pot, chopping boards, baking ovens, work tops and butchery.
Fresh herbs from the garden add to the sense of place, and there’s a lingering smell of charred wood.
Is this the most beautiful room in England?
Most spectacular of all is the Long Gallery, described by some as the most beautiful room in England, with sparkling glass windows, intricate panelling and an ornate ceiling.
You can easily imagine the ladies of the house, penned in by bad weather or other danger, taking their daily exercise along its stately length.
We also lingered a long time in the colourful grounds with their Elizabethan knot garden, wild flower meadow borders and ancient topiary.
The terraced areas flow down towards the river, adding interest and providing different views over the surrounding deer park.
Again, there’s no-one there to rush you and when we returned to the formal gardens close to the house I left Pork Belly to wander, while I sat in the sunshine and the sweet smelling perfume of roses.
Drinking in the view of Haddon Hall – the great survivor.
Just like Wesley and Buttercup!
Visiting Haddon Hall in Derbyshire
Haddon Hall is on the A6 between Bakewell and Rowsley and has dedicated car parking on the main road, a short walk from the house, and you will need your on transport to get there.
Accessibility is limited because of its age, with lots of steps and uneven floors, and only assistance dogs are allowed. The House and Gardens are open daily from March to September and selected dates October–December for special events.
Tickets in 2024 are £26 for adults and children aged 0–15 are free. For up-to-date opening hours and prices, see their website
Where next?
• 7 unmissable things in Bath
• The Manor at Hemingford Grey
• Secret gardens of London