The Palace Pier – and no matter how many times they change owners and names it will always be the Palace Pier to me – is part of my childhood.
Rain or shine, storm or calm, its slatted wooden boards and iron railings conjure up memories of high days and holidays of my youth with sticks of rock, doughnuts, ice-cream and chips.
Going on the pier is a rite of passage for every visitor to Brighton, even those who shun the slots and shudder at the thought of roller coasters and carousels.
It’s part of British seaside history and the sea views are fantastic.
But when you want to escape the stiff sea breezes and dive-bombing seagulls you can seek shelter in the newly refurbished Palm Court Restaurant.
Family friendly with a slice of nostalgia
After a four-month revamp Palm Court has reopened with the same family-friendly atmosphere but a new elegance.
Outside it’s all noise and bustle but inside is an oasis of calm and there’s more than a nod to times gone by with potted palms, a raised dais and staff in neat uniforms.
The restaurant’s capacity has increased from from 250 to 450 covers. There’s a smart new bar area and the old iron pillars, scrollwork and picture-windows have been given a freshen up.
The takeaway now has its own dedicated outside area to the left, in a sheltered spot, which improves access to the main restaurant.
It’s light, airy and the food is delicious.
Lunch on the pier
We were invited to lunch just after it re-opened to mark English Tourism Week. Nostalgia is a dangerous thing and going retro can sometimes lead to disappointment, but not this time.
First up Pork Belly went for that seventies classic, the prawn cocktail (£5.95). Back in our youth no dinner party or hotel meal was complete without this starter, which was usually served in a small wine glass with lashings of overly-pink sauce and a few tiny prawns.
At Palm Court the portion was generous, served in an elegant glass bowl with three huge prawns on the side, crisp fresh lettuce leaves and a light and not overpowering marie-rose sauce.
For the main course Pork Belly felt he had to be traditional, ordering haddock, chips and mushy peas (£12.95) with a side order of onion rings (£2.95).
The portions were generous, the batter light and crisp and the chips were great, light and fluffy inside crisp on the outside. Nothing heavy or overly greasy. The mushy peas were a little bland but a dash of vinegar soon sorted that out.
All the fish at Palm Court is sourced sustainably from managed fishing grounds and the menu does include some of the less popular fish like whitebait and bass.
But mainly it’s the familiar seaside standbys of cod, haddock and plaice. The chips are fresh cut, not frozen, and prepared on site.
More than fish and chips
There are healthy alternatives of most dishes and several vegetarian options on the menu but with my additional allergy to cow’s milk I was a bit harder to cater for.
I settled for a Greek salad with a genuine sheep and goats milk feta (£10.95). Lightly dressed and bursting with crisp lettuce, cucumber and black olives it was fresh and appetising. I did have a portion of chips with it too (£2.95), I just couldn’t resist!
Desserts again typify traditional seaside fare – sweet, sticky and mostly ice-cream based.
There are gluten-free options but nothing non-dairy so the team rustled up a fresh fruit salad for me. Off menu, but don’t be afraid to ask if you have special dietary requirements. Our waitress Caroline was helpful and well informed and the chefs behind the scenes quick to come up with alternatives.
As for Pork Belly? Well he felt he had to take one for the team and ordered the most stupendous Palace Pier Sundae (£5.95) which sums up Brighton in one dessert – Brighton Rock ice-cream, doughnuts, bright-blue-and-snow-white candy floss, a waffle cone and lashings of cream.
Ooof! I’m surprised he managed it all!
Actually, no, scratch that. I’m not surprised at all.
As we ate the sun came out, warming Pork Belly’s back through the windows (they’re looking at options to provide shade without obscuring the sea views) while I watched windswept tourists fending off marauding seagulls. We lingered a long time over coffee before braving the mad March weather again.
Our final verdict? A traditional seaside restaurant with proper pukka portions and friendly service.
More information about Palm Court Restaurant, Brighton Palace Pier
The prices given above are for March 2018. There’s a well stocked bar with a range of wines, beers and spirits on the menu as well as soft drinks. You can choose to have drinks only in Victoria’s at Palm Court at one end of the dining area.
The clientele is as you would expect for a seaside venue – families, couples and groups of friends. Most were tourists but there was a smattering of locals dropping in for a bite. For menus, including specials for children, and details of opening times, see their website
The Brighton Rock ice-cream for Pork Belly’s magnificent sundae came from The Sussex Ice Cream Company, based in Littlehampton.
Horatio’s Bar on the pier has also undergone recent refurbishment. It combines live entertainment with a well provisioned bar and a light bite menu including pizza, burgers, salads and desserts.
Disclaimer: Our meal came with the compliments of Brighton Palace Pier. The views expressed are our own.
Where next?
• Afternoon tea at Leonardslee
• Poppylands, Horsey, Norfolk
• Holiday & Travel Competitions