Rye is a town on the East Sussex coast, just over the border from Kent. It’s small – population around 5,000 – and you can walk round it in less than an hour.
But please don’t.
Seriously, don’t.
Because Rye may be pocket-sized but it’s packed with fascinating streets, tiny alleyways and a lot of history.
How do we know this? Well, with staycations being the order of the day we jumped in the car to spend the day in Rye.
History of Rye
Medieval maps show that Rye was originally a seaside settlement on what was known as the Rye Camber. It was a safe harbour and from Roman times became important for the export of iron from the Wealden iron industry. The town’s prosperity was based on sea-based trade which continued well into Tudor times, although the changing course of the River Rother and coastal erosion led to a constant battle to keep the routes from silting up.
During the 1100s it was part of the Cinque Ports Confederation, given tax exemptions and special treatment in return for providing shipping services to the Crown.
The development of bigger ships and deepwater harbours led to a gradual decline and smugglers soon replaced the sailors and soldiers. The town’s defences fell into disrepair and it became, as it is now, a harbour for fishing and pleasure boats.
Best things to see in Rye
Rye is very visitor-friendly and the locals seem tolerant of day-trippers and holiday-makers strolling up and down, peering through windows and generally clogging up the roads. I often day-dream about living in a chocolate-box country house with a centuries-old story. But I know I couldn’t cope with the constant gawping such a home would bring.
We started our exploration at Rye’s most famous place to promenade …
Mermaid Street
It’s steep, with gnarly cobbles underfoot, but is short and more than repays the little effort it takes to ascend. We stopped and stared at doorways, read the names on the houses (they are unique) and of course lingered a long time outside the iconic Mermaid Inn.
The road is mainly given over to pedestrians but deliveries and loading are allowed before 11 and after 4 so if you’re looking for unfettered and atmospheric pictures, you may have to wait a bit at these times.
A bit like Rome, all roads in Rye seem to lead back to Mermaid Street and the Mermaid Inn is the main attraction.
Mermaid Inn
We couldn’t resist the pull of history and just had to drop in. There’s a lovely little sun terrace round the back where you can sit and admire this ancient building.
There’s been a hostelry on the site since the 12th century. The current version dates back to 1420 although the cellars of 1156 still survive.
The Mermaid Inn has a turbulent past; smugglers like the notorious Hawkhurst Gang used it as their stronghold, sailors had their last drink ashore before boarding ships with the Cinque Ports Fleet and it housed Catholic priests fleeing persecution during The Reformation.
Royal Rye
Queen Elizabeth visited in 1573, declaring Rye ‘Royal’ in return for the town’s loyalty. And there’s a written record that the town paid the sum of 20 shillings to Shakespeare’s company The Lord Chamberlain’s Players for a performance which would probably have taken place at the Mermaid.
Not surprisingly, the Mermaid Inn has a reputation for being haunted, by not one but several spirits, many of whom are said to have met a gory end there. But our leisurely drink was undisturbed by any hint of spooky.
St Mary’s Church and Tower
If your walking tour of any destination doesn’t take in at least one church or religious structure you’re probably missing out on the history and character of the place. From tiny chapels in mountain villages to ornate temples and elaborate cathedrals, they’re packed with snippets of human history, faith and fable.
St Mary’s is no exception, dominating the town of Rye for more than 900 years.
When the current building was started early in the 12th century, the town was held by the Abbey of Fecamp in Normandy and the church had so much money spent on it that it became known as ‘the Cathedral of East Sussex’.
Fire, looting and raids on Rye
Disaster came in 1377 when the town was looted and set on fire by French invaders and the church was badly damaged by the raiders who stole the church bells.
The following year men from Rye and Winchelsea banded together to stage a counter-attack and snatched them back. One of the bells was hung in nearby Watchbell Street to give tongue if there was ever another raid.
The church has some beautiful stained glass windows including one by Sir Edward Burne-Jones, part of which you might recognise from the Royal Mail’s Pre-Raphaelite Christmas Stamp collection a few years ago.
If you’re looking for calm and a moment’s meditation stand a while and watch the pendulum from the clock which swings to and fro in the main body of the church. The clock itself was installed in the late 1500s and is one of the oldest still working turret clocks in the country.
The bells of St Mary’s
The 8 bells in St Mary’s Tower are not the originals that were stolen. Cast in 1775 and weighing around 5 tons you don’t want to be in the room when they strike the hour!
Pay a small fee for the pleasure, privilege (and pain if you suffer from vertigo and/or claustrophobia!) of climbing the church tower and you’ll be rewarded with stunning 360 degree views of the town and beyond. Pork Belly bounded up the steps, squeezed through the narrow passages and burst out onto the roof.
Me? Let’s just say I was a little more cautious.
And, in the best Rye tradition, St Mary’s has its own ghost story.
In 1742 butcher John Breeds murdered Alan Grebell in the churchyard, by mistake. His intended victim was the town’s mayor. Breeds was hanged and gibbeted for his crime and his skull put on display in the Town Hall. Both Breeds and his victim are said to haunt the graveyard.
Rye Water House
Strolling around the peaceful graveyard we noticed an odd structure just outside the walls at the north eastern end. Far too big to be dovecot, not the right shape for an oast house, we were intrigued.
Turns out to be an historical anomaly – about 100 years before Victorian engineers invented plumbing, this water cistern was built to bring piped water to the residents.
The vicar graciously granted permission for church land to be given over to building the water house. It’s empty now but you can still see the old pipe-and-pump works in the wall.
Ypres Tower
Another trick when visiting a new place is to find the route of the old walls, which will ensure you get to see what’s most important to the town, even today.
Not much of Rye’s original wall remains, but it once circled and defended the whole old town.
Ypres Tower, which was probably meant to be part of a much bigger castle which never materialised, was built sometime in the 13th or 14th century, nobody seems quite sure.
Originally it was known as Baddyngs Tower and would have given defenders great views out across the harbour towards the sea. The name Ypres came later when it was owned by John de Iprys and became a jail.
Today it houses a small museum and there are lovely views over the marsh to the sea from nearby Gun Gardens.
Landgate
Landgate at the other end of town is the only other surviving defensive structure.
It was built in 1329 in the early years of the reign of King Edward III. Today only light vehicles can pass through it and it still stands strong. But not exactly untouched by time – a few years ago around 25 tonnes of pigeon poop had to be removed to avoid damaging the archway!
Where to eat in Rye
We’re never ones for being prescriptive about eating out – we don’t say you must go here, you must try this – because everyone looks for something different in an eatery.
And Rye has a lot to offer, from tiny tea rooms to bijou restaurants, jazz and piano bars and pizza palaces.
We stopped for a good strong coffee and a cake at the oldest tearoom in Rye. Simon the Pieman has been selling his wares there since 1920. Today it’s a cosy place with friendly staff and typical English tea room style, but nothing out of the ordinary.
Mermaid Street Café
Pork Belly dropped in to the Mermaid Street Café because he’d seen their sausage rolls on Instagram. They did not disappoint apparently. But sadly they had nothing in the vegan line to tempt me.
By the time we’d beat the bounds of the town several times from harbour to hills we were ready for something a little more sustaining and Tatners Street Kitchen was our first choice.
Tatners Street Kitchen
A little off the beaten tourist track, it’s a small restaurant furbished in what you might call industrial chic – all twisted pipes and corrugated iron. It had some banging tunes playing as we entered and a very tantalising aroma.
Their menu is not extensive but there’s enough choice to suit most tastes.
I had a superb vegan burger with BBQ sauce, ultra-tasty, and Pork Belly dined on local Romney Marsh lamb koftas wrapped in a flatbread.
He opted for the spicy chips while I indulged in their garlic and rosemary fries – the best I have ever eaten and I’d happily do a round trip from home for another portion!
I was stuffed by this time but Pork Belly couldn’t resist their oreo-inspired sundae to top it off.
Rye Nature Reserve
A long walk to burn off the calories was in order, but the march along Harbour Road to Rye Nature Reserve was too much to contemplate in what had turned into a warm, sunny day.
So we cheated and took the car to the free car park near the ruined Martello Tower.
From here you can strike off in almost any direction and lose yourself amongst the salty wetlands, for a spot of bird-watching, insect spotting and general appreciation of nature.
Getting to Rye
Having a car makes it easy, whether you’re heading north/south or east/west and the journey will take you through some lovely countryside, including the famous Romney Marsh.
There are train services that run regularly from London St Pancras also services running east/west although you will have to change at least once en route.
And finally ..
On your way to or from Rye do take the time to stop a while in Winchelsea.
Another historic Cinque Port with a rich history, although much smaller and quieter than its neighbour, it repays a little wander.
Plus the ancient chuchyard of St Thomas the Martyr holds the grave of comic genius, Spike Milligan.
His plan to have the epitaph ‘I told you I was ill’ led to a long battle with authorities and family members.
Eventually he got his way with the phrase in gaelic ‘Dúirt mé leat go raibh mé breoite’ carved into his headstone.
So he got the last laugh!
Where to next?
• Ghosts and Gravestones tour of Boston
• Richard of York gave battle in vain
• 8 quirky places to visit in the UK
A very good and interesting account of Rye. A town I know quite well from my youth as a native of Tunbridge Wells. It was a place to visit at various time on our motorcycles on our half day off and Rye bonfire night. Great place. I’ve often visited Rye and the Mermaid Inn in later years. When passing by on holidays.
It is much more ‘touristy’ these days than in my youth in the 60’s.
Thanks for sharing. We love Rye and agree it’s more touristy these days, but is still full of charm. Happy Travels.