Set within 26 acres of woodland on the site of two Victorian china clay pits, Wheal Martyn Clay Works vividly tells the story of Cornwall’s clay mining history and the people who worked there.
Standing in the shadows of the county’s iconic ‘white pyramids’ (waste from a still vibrant industry) Wheal Martyn is testament to the importance of the white stuff both then and now.
From china mugs to porcelain plates, paper to paracetamol, toothpaste and tyres, where would we be without clay?
Wheal Martyn is a fascinating museum and enchanting nature trail with paths that wind past abandoned settling tanks, water wheels and pumping stations.
On our last trip to the West Country, we spent almost a whole day there.
Pork Belly was entranced by the soft greens of the moss covered ruins and the machinery looming out of the mist. I wandered around, reading about the life of a clay miner and musing on how ill-equipped I was for any sort of manual labour.
Because even with the magnificent Victorian, steam-driven machines, the life of a clay miner was tough, demanding and labour-intensive, powering the precious clay out of the rock and into homes and workplaces around the world.
A brief history of china clay mining in Cornwall
The Cornish Alps is one name for the area around St Austell that literally grew up out of the ground. The quarries generated massive spoil heaps, sometimes called ‘sky tips’, that give the region an almost alpine look with its man-made mountains.
Less well known than the tin and copper mines further west, the china clay industry has a fascinating past.
From the earliest adventurers who brought the secret of fine porcelain back to England from China, through the engineers who developed quicker and more efficient ways of pulling it from the ground to those who slaved in dangerous open cast mines to bring the heavy, sticky clay into the drying rooms.
Then there were the women, skilled and strong-armed, who shaped the clay into usable blocks. The horse-carriers who took the precious loads through winding streets down to the sea and the children, pressed into service of the precious material.
And yet there was a sense of community there, presided over by pit-managers who tried to care for the workers in their charge as they brought prosperity in otherwise hard times.
As I walked around Wheal Martyn, I imagined I could hear their voices calling through the mist as they worked, changing the landscape forever.
Why are Cornish mines called Wheal?
Wheal is Cornish for work or working, and the name began to be used for the hundreds of engine houses that sprung up to power the tin, copper and clay mines of the region.
There are more than 200 of them still in existence all around this UNESCO Mining World Heritage area.
Is china clay still mined in Cornwall?
Yes, and Wheal Martyn is a great place to see it in action. There’s a viewing platform at the edge of the site where you can see the working and huge machines of the 21st century industry.
Are dogs allowed at Wheal Martyn?
The whole family is welcome at Wheal Martyn, and that includes your four-legged friend. The woodland trails are great for dog walking, with a picnic area under the trees.
Does Wheal Martyn have a café?
If alfresco eating doesn’t appeal, there’s a licensed café serving breakfasts, lunches and cakes, all homemade and locally sourced.
Visiting Wheal Martyn today
Located within two former clay works dating from the 1820s, Wheal Martyn is preserved in a working state, with views of the pit, collections of machinery, photographs and an interactive Discovery Centre.
If you’ve an engineering enthusiast, geologist or rail fanatic in your party, they will be in seventh heaven!
Accessibility at Wheal Martyn
The site is on a hill and some of the paths are uneven, but the Discovery Centre, shop and café are fully accessible, and they have a Sensory Map which highlights areas with sensory experiences.
Admission
Prices in 2023 are £12 for an adult, £38 for a family saver ticket for 2 adults and up to 4 children. Under 5s are free and if you live in Cornwall you can get discounted entry with the Residents’ Pass.
Dogs are welcome on a lead.
For opening times and special events, see the Wheal Martyn website
All images copyright © rosemaryandporkbelly
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