Heading westwards from our Sussex home, the land begins to change. Rolling chalk downland and wild woodland give way to open moors and high hills, where mist and low cloud leave their spectral trails.
By the time you reach Cornwall, it’s changed yet again. Craggy granite cliffs dive down to beautiful turquoise waters, creating secret coves, perfect for fishing boats and holidaymakers.
Amid the natural beauty of hill, moor and harbour you’ll see undeniable traces of Cornwall’s industrial past, shaping both landscape and lifestyle. Strange flat-topped hills, the waste heaps from the old mining industry now re-planted and green, ring many of the towns and villages.
Lovers of the Poldark series by Winston Graham and its two major TV adaptations will know the romance of tin, copper and silver mining but slate mining was just as important in its own way.
Cornwall’s mining past
Carnglaze Caverns was Cornwall’s only underground slate mine. Long disused, it’s now open to the public as a combined concert hall, museum, wedding venue and fairytale trail.
Owner Caroline Richards is a former geography teacher who fell in love with the site’s beautiful woodland. She first created a fun, family-orientated walk offering glimpses of fairyfolk amongst the trees.
Scrambling through narrow paths and up steep steps there’s something fun, fascinating and fey around each corner. Deep in the hillside are signs of foxes, badgers and possibly faeryfolk.
The bluebells, always a little slow to arrive this far inland on the edge of the moor, will be coming into bloom about now as the spring sun warms the cold hillside.
Children will love following the fairy trail and the excitement of hard hat and torch as they venture underground.
Bringing slate mining to life
Getting not one but three slate caverns was an unexpected bonus for Caroline and when she learned of their history she turned her geology knowledge to use and created a simple but effective attraction.
A flight of 60 steps take you deep into the hillside, 60 metres below ground. Low lighting gives you a sense of what it must have been like to work underground with only candles for company.
But today it’s peaceful, with crystal clear blue-green waters filling up the old workings.
And the acoustics are amazing!
Underground music venue
The main hall, once the Rum Room where the Navy stored its rations, is perfect for classical concerts and rock bands.
The stage has played host to top names like Elkie Brooks, Rick Wakeman and The Levellers.
Fans of Echo and The Bunnymen will recognise the setting from the group’s Ocean Rain album cover and many have made the pilgrimage for their musical heroes.
Delicately illuminated to show off the turquoise water without disturbing the nearby colony of bats, it has a glorious echo.
And yes, I did have a little sing there!
Disclaimer: The owners of Carnglaze Caverns very kindly gave us free entry. The opinions above are our own.
More information about Carnglaze Caverns
Opening Hours:
Low-season: Wednesday – Sunday 10am to 5pm
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays
High-season: 7 days a week from 10am to 8pm
You can find Carnglaze Caverns just off the A38 near St Neot, just look for the brown signs.
What3Words location is: ///instant.parsnip.hats
Or visit the following websites:
• Carnglaze Caverns
• Visit Cornwall
Where to next?
• Wheal Martyn Museum, Cornwall
• Island Life – Tresco
• Postcard from Cornwall