We love Thai food.
Okay, that’s a sweeping statement because there are almost as many types of Thai cuisine as there are planets in the sky.
From the vegetable-stock and noodles of Northern Thailand and the highly-spiced North-eastern dishes, through the street food of Bangkok to the seafood soups and salads of the south.
But if a bad fairy ever waved her wand and said I could only eat out in one type of restaurant for the rest of my days, it would definitely be Thai.
We last ate at Chilli in Hove several years ago, when it was known as Café Chilli.
At that time it was fine. Traditional dishes like green curry, Pad Thai and Tom Yum soup were well presented, and the service was friendly, the atmosphere casual.
But it wasn’t anything special. The fact that we’ve kept saying, ‘We must go back there’ and yet somehow never did tells its own story.
But now, things are a little different, thanks to arrival of a new chef slap-bang in the middle of a pandemic!
Traditional Thai, with a twist
The menu remains full of old favourites, but each dish has been injected with a new lease of life, a subtle change in the flavours.
Still traditional, but with a new twist.
For some reason the day we dropped in I was humungously hungry.
Probably the stormy weather and the feeling that ‘Winter is Coming’ generated a desire to stuff myself silly and hibernate.
When we eat out I can’t leave my allergies behind, and I don’t sink my vegetarian principles, but I am willing to forgo my usual low-carb preference to make sure I get enough choice.
At Chilli this was not a problem with a host of vegetarian, vegan and just plain tasty offerings.
And as everyone knows Pork Belly will eat pretty much anything (except figs and dates – go figure!)
For starters there was Thai sausage for him and coconut and chilli bites for us both. The bites were piping hot, a light batter encasing crisp veggies with a sweet chilli dipping sauce.
Not too spicy, but gently flavourful.
The Thai sausage sent Pork Belly into raptures, and left him devising all sorts of alternative cooked breakfast ideas to recreate at home.
Vegan options
My plant-based platter was beautifully presented – veggie spring rolls packed with goodness and surrounded in a light batter that wasn’t even the slightest bit greasy (a problem I’ve had elsewhere).
The penang curry, a thicker, richer version of the traditional Thai green curry, was smooth and satisfyingly warm while the ginger stir-fry had all the punch and bite of a fiery tom cat – absolutely perfect.
Traditional meat curry
Pork Belly went for one single dish – a chicken massaman which he pronounced perfect, served with sticky rice.
Delicious dessert
Now after all that lot I couldn’t manage another bite, despite my previous hunger, but Pork Belly went the whole hog with a Thai pancake and ice-cream.
Nothing like a French crepe, this is light and thin pastry, made with condensed milk and fried.
Don’t even think of counting the calories.
So why the change?
Nothing dramatic, Chilli is still family-owned and run, but the previous chef needed to move on, and the new arrival has slotted in well, bringing a fresh perspective to a well-established eatery.
Our lunch bill came in at just over £50 which we thought was good value.
Lunchtime trade has been hit badly by COVID, but evening trade is still steady. Hopefully they’ll ride out the storm.
I know I’ll be back for more!
You’ll find Chilli Thai Restaurant at:
8 Church Rd, Hove BN3 2FL
For opening times, booking and menu see their website
Where to next?
• Mizu Noodle Bar, Brentwood
• Nelson’s Dockyard, Antigua
• Vegan raspberry and white chocolate no-bake cheesecake